A wine that most perfectly conveys the spirit and essence of its place, Barbaresco is true reflection of terroir. Its star grape, like that in the neighboring Barolo region, is Nebbiolo. Four townships within the Barbaresco zone can produce Barbaresco: the actual village of Barbaresco, as well as Neive, Treiso and San Rocco Seno d'Elvio.
Broadly speaking there are more similarities in the soils of Barbaresco and Barolo than there are differences. Barbaresco’s soils are approximately of the same two major soil types as Barolo: blue-grey marl of the Tortonion epoch, producing more fragile and aromatic characteristics, and Helvetian white yellow marl, which produces wines with more structure and tannins.
Nebbiolo ripens earlier in Barbaresco than in Barolo, primarily due to the vineyards’ proximity to the Tanaro River and lower elevations. While the wines here are still powerful, Barbaresco expresses a more feminine side of Nebbiolo, often with softer tannins, delicate fruit and an elegant perfume. Typical in a well-made Barbaresco are expressions of rose petal, cherry, strawberry, violets, smoke and spice. These wines need a few years before they reach their peak, the best of which need over a decade or longer. Bottle aging adds more savory characteristics, such as earth, iron and dried fruit.
Vintner Notes
Deep purple color. Shows fresh and balsamic first notes, with aromas of lavender, basil, freshly-cut grass. Then it turns into a spicy and smoky character, with white pepper, clove and cinnamon. The palate is compact and clean, with notes of red apple, wild strawberry, blood orange, and licorice. Firm, fine-grained tannins keep this wine tightly wound, leading to the great aging potential.
Ratings
Wine Spectator 95.A mix of earth, wild herb, cherry and plum flavors mine the rich texture in this intense red, which is well-balanced and lively, with a lingering aftertaste echoing the fruit and adding a mineral element. Gains polish with air. Best from 2024 through 2045.
Robert Parker 94.The Gaja 2017 Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn opens to a luminous ruby appearance with pretty crimson highlights. This vintage appears lighter in color and concentration compared to past editions. The bouquet delivers a purity and sharpness nonetheless, but it offers less overall fruit. It shows subtle berry tones with blue flower, aniseed and candied orange peel. This very young Sorì Tildìn takes time to open, and it remains on the nervous side even after it has been given ample time in the glass. The best course of action is to wait until the 10-year mark before opening this bottle. It needs that extra time to soften and flesh out.
James Suckling 96.Extremely perfumed with strawberries, flowers, cherries and hints of ash and tar. Medium to full-bodied with tightness and raciness to the tannins. Polished, too. Very, very persistent.
