September 2023 Region of Focus: Lebanon
Lebanon is home to the 2,000 year old Roman Temple of Bacchus, the God of wine and ecstasy. At the entrance you are greeted with grapevines etched into the marble. The name of the temple is slightly misleading, researchers are still unsure if the temple was dedicated to Bacchus or was named after him. This old temple is an incredible testament to how grapes and wine played an important role in the Middle East and during the Phoenician reign. The Phoenicians are an ancient civilization who settled in the eastern Mediterranean which is now considered the birthplace of wine. Phoenician shipwrecks have been found containing hundreds of clay amphora vessels sealed with pine resin, another indication of wine making for thousands of years.
Unfortunately, Lebanon has a tumultuous history. In the early 20th century, the country was under French mandate from 1920 -1946. Lebanon’s wine industry was heavily influenced by the French and many wineries call themselves a Chateau. Later, from 1975 – 1990 Lebanon was engaged in a civil war and all wine making ceased except for religious purposes. Because of this 20 year war, Lebanon wine is still in its infancy with less than 50 wineries.
With sunshine for 300 days a year and cool nights, Lebanon is an ideal location for grape growing and is known for very ripe concentrated full bodied reds. Unlike other wine producing regions Lebanon grows grapes as bush vines instead of using trellis systems.
The largest population of wineries is in the western part of the country in the Bekka Valley. Chateau Kefreya and Ksara produce the largest quantity of bottles out of all 50 wineries in the country. The grapes grown there are predominantly French in origin such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Syrah. Currently because of the hot and dry climate growers are planting Cinsault, Carignan, Grenache and Mourvèdre which are more tolerant of the changing climate. There are native varieties as well, Obaideh, Merwah, & Sabbaghieh.
The featured bottles for the region of focus this month are from 2 different wineries Chateau Kefraya located on the mountain slopes of Berouk at 3,280 feet and Chateau Ksara founded in 1857 with 790 acres of vineyard. Both wineries are located in the Bekka Valley.
Chateau Kefraya ‘Les Bretches’ white 2021 is made with Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier & Muscat Blanc. Kefraya is certified organic practicing minimal intervention. Michel de Bustros, the winery founder says “A wine-grower who loves his vines visits them, talks to them and touches them. The vine feels it and responds positively. There is certainly a communication between man and the fauna. Then, why not between man and the flora?” This Les Bretches white is sure to be a crowd pleaser and is very much alive showcasing the terroir and the winemakers decisions.
Chateau Kefrayas Couteaux 2018 is a full bodied luscious red made from hand harvested Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Marselan, another French grape variety crossed with Cabernet Sauvignon & Grenache. The vineyard where these grapes are harvested is at an elevation of 3,280 feet. "Coteaux is a return to our origins; the wine is different, but the emotion is the same." says Michel de Bustros.
Lastly, Chateau Ksara is the oldest winery in the Bekka Valley. In 1902 an observatory was built on the property where monks observed seismic activity and recorded rainfall. The old vine Carignan grows at an elevation of 3,397 feet, is aged and fermented in 19th century concrete vats made by the Jesuits, a religious order of men involved in the Catholic tradition. This Carignan is a very concentrated wine with ripe red raspberries, blackberries, plum jam and a long finish with integrated tannins. It would be a fantastic pairing with red meat or charcuterie.
Lebanon is a very interesting place to feature this month. We hope you enjoy the flight of wine and perhaps expand your palate and your wine knowledge.